The road to Varanasi

From Khajuraho I ended up on a 5 hour bus to a small town called Satna. I was due for a 5 hour wait for the train and had to say goodbye to a happy Dutch couple that I had met on the way. As they were running down the platform to catch their train I was pulled into a tourist office by some friendly dudes, telling me to sit down and relax. No complaints. They order food and beer for me but I had to eat and drink in this tiny dark room in the back because it was an 'office' Around 930, closing time, we picked up a bottle off rum and whisky thereby making my 11 hour sleep on the train to Varanasi a smooth one. Varanasi, the holiest of all cities. Situated along the sacred Ganges and just minutes away from Sarneth, site of Buddhas first sermon. A fascinating place to say the least, I especially had fun strolling the old city along the river, watching the locals bathe in the filth called Ganges. According to some reports the river is absolutely septic. Nonetheless the water is sacred and every day thousands take a morning dip to 'cleanse' themselves. But the most astonishing thing of all was the mass public cremations. Also along the river fires are built up and then bodies routinely brought down to the banks for a dip and then promptly burned in full view, 24/7. I must say that I was uneasy at first but it was a truly thought provoking experience. Next stop - Kathmandu, Nepal.